Delicate rice fields rolling under the sun, equally delicate elephants roaming freely, immense beaches stretching to the horizon, and the true, original paella – these are but a few of the rather extraordinary findings in one singular city, Valencia. A citybreak wonderland escape indeed, it’s the place where even a river lives a heroic second life, perfectly reincarnated into verdant gardens.
I had underestimated Valencia for years; between the fascination of Andalucia, the pull of the islands and the overwhelming buzz of Barcelona and Madrid, Valencia never made the Spanish top list. I am happy to admit I was in the wrong. Surprises of such magnitude are priceless for the happy few, so I’m over the moon with excitement about this one.
Intel
- best scenario: citybreak plus day trips. Stay for a week and rent a car for a few days to go outside Valencia, up on Costa del Azahar to Peniscola and south to Albufera, Cullera and Denia, towards Cabo de Santo Antonio.
- where to stay: If you like to stay near the sea, you can choose the parador in El Saler or Las Arenas Hotel & Spa in Cabanyal. I personally like the center best: the area south of Plaza de la Reina, around Poeta Querol towards Colon is especially beautiful. Palacio Dos Aguas seems out of this world at night, and dining al fresco is more peaceful in this part of town than in El Carmen.
- best time to visit: anytime, but preferably outside the summer heat. A favourite time is during Las Fallas, the city’s extravagaza fiesta.
- navigating Valencia is an absolute pleasure. Public transport is a dream
- local signage is in Valencian, the local dialect, which can diverge quite significantly from standard Spanish. For instance, do look for ‘la Pau’ rather than ‘la Paz’, ‘Xativa’ instead of ‘Jativa’, and ‘Platja’ for ‘Playa
This is a city that possesses every ingredient for happiness and serenity. It’s neither glitzy nor overtly loud, never ostentatious, and simply brimming with good taste. Valencia offers an intimacy that Madrid simply lacks and a subtle elegance absent from Barcelona’s more flamboyant displays – all very much to its credit. There’s a refreshing absence of anything that feels like a tourist trap, and, most crucially, it’s a veritable heaven for children of all ages and for those who appreciate the great outdoors.
Why you feel Wonder-full in Valencia
They don’t quite flaunt it, but the world-famous paella, you know, was actually invented right here, and they still craft the finest version known to mankind. What one comes to discover is that the original paella recipe is a rustic delight, typically featuring meat (rabbit and chicken), snails, green and white beans, and, of course, the local rice – lovingly cultivated in the nearby Albufera lagoon. Yes, one can even visit these rice fields and partake in a spot of bird watching simultaneously.
Another quite extraordinary thing about this city is that all roads, it seems, lead to Turia. Now, is Turia a river or a park? Remarkably, it’s both! The Turia river, once winding through the city towards the sea, proved rather troublesome over the years, repeatedly inundating a city otherwise obsessed with its immaculate cleanliness. So, what was done? With a touch of magic and the brilliance of clever architects, they simply diverted the river’s course south of the city. The former riverbed was then transformed into an ever-charming park that sweeps across the city, forming a magical itinerary of palm trees, orange groves, playgrounds, sports fields, fountains, and secluded patches of pine woods for moments of quiet contemplation. Navigating from one side of the city to another means either a walk through the green riverbed or a crossing of one of its many elegant bridges. If that isn’t a truly awesome way to traverse a city, I don’t know what is.
The City is a Huge Playground
Valencia is, at its heart, a colossal playground, brimming with magnificent parks, thrilling wildlife encounters, an immense, fine sand beach, and the best infrastructure for cycling, rollerblading, or even Segway tours. You’ll constantly observe locals jogging, picnicking, flying kites, or simply playing. It’s that every day vacay spirit : you can lose yourself in a book amidst the tranquil Monforte Gardens, engage in all sorts of sport within the Turia riverbed park, idle away an afternoon on the beach, or perhaps even indulge in painting pink flamingos or chasing lemurs at the renowned Bioparc.
I’ve got a bit of a soft spot for giraffes, you see – what more is there to say? Bioparc is the happiest re-creation of Africa you’ll ever see. Just pack a proper picnic and spend a whole day there, snapping photos and simply exploring. You absolutely won’t regret it.
Seamless blend of old and new
Valencia is old and new at the same time, integrating all ages without effort. The historical part of the city is made of two neighborhoods, the Ciutat Vella and El Carmen, where most of the tourist attractions are. Map in hand you will check them out quite quickly: The Cathedral, Mercat Central, Lonja de la Seda, Estacio Norte and Plaza de Toros, Torres Serranos, The City Hall (information point inside) etc. The old city is luminous and not that cramped as you’d expect from a place with such rich history, fitting into the bigger picture of large boulevards, modern buildings and the beautifully contrasting Ciutat de la Artes e las Ciencias.
Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències
The City of Arts and Sciences is truly amazing, not just picture perfect. Calatrava’s Hemispheric is the defining image of the city, and surely the icon featured in all guides when you plan your travel. The whole complex is more impressing than first imagined, and it takes two-three days to properly discover it. It includes the Hemispheric – a Planetarium and IMAX cinema designed to resemble an eye that can open its eyelids, a Science Museum, an opera house, the Agora – a congresses and concerts hall, the Umbracle – a landscaped walk through the complex and a futuristic bridge whose 125 m high tower is the tallest structure in the city, all designed by Santiago Calatrava. The complex also includes the one and only Oceanographic, the marvel designed by Candela, for which you truly must reserve a day. Here, penguins waddle, birds soar, butterflies flutter, whales glide, corals bloom, and dolphins dance – the entire ocean to discover.
The sea, the sea
Ah, the sea! And the glorious beach that comes with it! Valencia has an absolutely immense, fine-sand beach, stretching for miles and miles north from the harbour, far beyond the city limits. The sea-facing neighbourhood, Cabanyal, preserves its authentic fishing village feel, with small, colourful houses proudly bearing the marks of time. The municipality tried to modernize Cabanyal but faced a fierce resistance from the locals; the outcome is the same lively, appealing chaos of humble homes adorned with vibrant tiles and bright graffiti, where greasy taverns often hide the finest pescaditos fritos in town.
A generous promenade – more of a palm-tree-lined boulevard, really – guides you along the Las Arenas beach in Cabanyal and continues seamlessly along the immense Malvarrosa beach. Infinite sunbathing options and never truly crowded. Come to think of it, this may very well be the finest big city beach in all of Europe.
