Oh la la! To chase lavender perfection, to truly step into that postcard! this is another quintessential escape reserved for the happy few: lavender season in Provence. As ever, true immersion simply can’t be rushed; you really must take a week for the discovery; anything less would be, quite frankly, a compromise. Consider this as your personal itinerary for a laissez-faire exploration of the finest lavender fields. However, do keep in mind that true revelation comes not to the avid seeker, but to the dreamer. Chasing these fields should always be about magnetic loops and romantic detours, never merely about the pins on a map.
Intel:
- Best scenario: flight to Marseille, rent a car and find a gîte provencal in the Luberon valley as your base
- Best time to visit: last week of June – mid July. after Bastille Day, your safest bet is the higher area near Sault
- Seize the moment! Lavender fields are changing. For a few years now, the farmers are fighting drought, change in climate patterns and plant disease, so they need to rethink fields management, too. In the not-so-distant future, the lavender fields may not always display that perfectly symmetrical, all-purple perfection we idealise today. Even I noticed a change over the past four years. Harvest starts sooner, fields are smaller and other species of complementary plants are inserted in the lavender rows to keep the soil healthy. The look of one field or the other vary upon each season, and Valensole is the most affected.
Day One: The Heart of the Luberon
Bonnieux and the Luberon Valley
Once settled into your Provençal retreat within one of the chic villages in Luberon Valley, you’re already in the absolute sine qua non of the lavender realm. The Luberon Regional Park is home to all the wonders: expansive lavender fields, timeless hilltop villages, and sinuous country roads where you never cease to french kiss.
Bonnieux, a seductive village perched on a hillside, offers panoramic vistas where lavender meets vineyards in a stunning embrace – a perfect start to your day. Soak in that classical, laid-back Provençal atmosphere as you drive through the plain between Bonnieux, Lacoste, and Ménerbes; you can simply pull over and wander right into those alluring purple patches glimpsed from above. This stretch is a masterclass in embracing the unplanned scenic detour.
Saignon
For a longer, most romantic detour, Saignon. It’s intimate, timeless and secretive, so a personal top favourite. Driving right through the aromatic countryside, Saignon is surrounded by lavender and almond trees, with its rock and medieval walls adding a dramatic touch to each and every snapshot. Climb the rock of the village to get spectacular views: the white-topped Mont Ventoux, Montagne de Lure, a glimpse of the Alps and even Avignon on a clear day.
Day Two: Gordes and sacred Sénanque
Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque
Yes, it’s my no.1 too. Topping all lavender tops and Provence guides, the iconic Senanque Abbey is a heavenly masterpiece set amidst heavenly lavender fields. Wander through the ancient stone walls, capture those postcard-perfect shots of the abbey framed by fragrant lavender blooms, but do take your time offline and gadget-free. Set amidst guarding hills in a peaceful valley, this secluded enclave of colors and scents brings you closer to God, literally.
Gordes
Perched on a hilltop and a proud member of the Most beautiful French villages collection / Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, Gordes is a memorable fortress with narrow streets that lead to breathtaking viewpoints. You will stop here for lunch or dinner on your way to/from Senanque Abbey, but there are also beautiful small fields just at the foot of the hill, framed by the majestic citadel as if staged for a cinematography prize.
Day Three: Valensole Plateau
It’s the Lavender Seas. Most postcards featuring vast, symmetric, dreamy lavender fields are shot here. As far as the eye can see, lavender blankets the fields and the rolling hills, creating an ethereal spectacle. Drive through the picturesque landscape, stop along the way and just step into the postcard.
Coming from Manosque in direction of Valensole, it’s purple country. Beware though, you won’t be alone, as most tourists have Valensole set as THE pin on the map. You will also find famous lavender farms with their distilleries and own shops here, such as Maison Angelvin or Terraroma. Terraroma is a pit stop for everyone, because the lavender field is just next to a sunflower field – and the contrast is simply fab.
Field trip
The languid loop around Valensole, heading towards Riez or Brunet, means discovery after discovery, with splendid surprises unfolding along the Route de Puismoisson and the Route d’Oraison. For me, the highlights were a lavender hill just a whisper off the main road between Angelvin and Valensole, and a truly colossal expanse stretching beyond Valensole, on the road to Riez.
Day 4: The Higher Plateaus of Sault
Sault
Venture to the charming town of Sault, renowned as the Lavender Capital of Luberon, and take your time here to discover its pace and the rural buzz typical for the peak of the season. You’ll find authentic farmers’ markets, lively festivals dedicated to lavender, locally sourced produce and a warm Provençal ambiance that will steal your heart. Mount Ventoux offers a great backdrop for the lavender fields, and the lavender trails towards Aurel and Ferrassières are the hidden gems you were looking for.
Loop and detour
Go off the beaten path and see the charming village of Simiane-la-Rotonde, perched on a hilltop and enveloped by lavender fields. You are perfectly surrounded! Meander through medieval streets and relish the intoxicating scent of lavender that wafts through the air, creating a quiet bubble of wonder.
Another good detour is Banon. Beyond being wonderfully tucked away amongst its own lavender fields, Banon is absolutely famed for its exquisite cheese. Matured all wrapped up in chestnut leaves, this presents the perfect opportunity for a most welcome pitstop with a glass of local wine and a fresh baguette.
