Holiday in Provence? #LAVIEESTBELLE! Provence is great from the highest mountain to the serene sea. But at the heart of it all you will find that Luberon = AMOUR.
This is a special kind of treasure that not all who have the map will actually find, and the kind of wonder that not all will decipher. But if you are a bit lazy, a bit sophisticated, a bit of a cultural buff, a bit of a crowd snob, a bit timeless, a bit of a gourmand or a great slow traveller, this the ultimate recipe for summer holiday in Provence.
Provence is a big realm, full of all sorts of gems. From the excess of the Riviera to the wilderness of Camargue or the big ego of the historical cities, Provence is great from the highest mountain to the serene sea. But at the heart of it all you will find the Luberon – and that is a coup de coeur to last a lifetime.
Luberon is a picturesque region located in the core of Provence, roughly situated between Cavaillon (V), Saint Saturnin les Apt (N), Manosque (E) and Pertius (S) – or one hour/ one hour and a half from Aix, Avignon or Marseille. Blessed with a perfect Mediterranean climate and an extraordinary landscape, the area is in fact a wonderland made of green hills, purple fields, rocky gorges and lush vegetation on one side and the other of the Luberon mountain. Timeless as it is, the Luberon has preserved its villages perchés intact, and has cast an invisibility cloak on its precious treasures to keep them safe from the madding crowd. What is truly perplexing here is the feeling of privacy and natural elegance. How is it that such beauty can coexist with so much silence?
ONE: WHEN IS BEST TIME TO VISIT?
Between mid June and first of August. In fact, an out-of-season holiday in Provence can be equally fabulous – and you’d avoid the heat, too. But the Luberon is lavender country, and lavender blooms – alas! – only from the half of June until the first days of August. And there’s no better place on Earth to live the lavender dream.
TWO: WHERE TO STAY IN LUBERON PROVENCE?
In a gite provencal (a typical Provencal cottage). Luberon is, in truth, a holiday destination for the discerning. There are of course a number of great hotels and even chateaux stays, but the character of old gites is quite unique. Look for an apartment in a historical estate, or rent a home all for yourself, ideally somewhere in the middle of it all – the area around Bonnieux, Lacoste, Menerbes, Oppede, at the feet of the mountain. Other delicious places to stay are Lourmarin or Saignon. Car is essential.
THREE: THE ICONIC VILLAGES
Countless villages and hamlets are gracing Luberon’s rolling hills with a timeless charm. Dating back to the Middle Ages, the villages perches, including Gordes, Ménerbes, and Oppède-le-Vieux, are strategically perched on hilltops, creating a breathtaking sight to the exploring driver and offering awe-inspiring vistas that stretch across fairytale lands. The all time classics are:
SAIGNON has it all to make it the Provencal dream: it’s small, it’s wow, it’s away from the hype, it’s in the middle of the lavender hug and has great gastronomy (the exquisite Un jardin sur le toit and the rustic Au Comptoire de Balthazar) that erotic chic that makes you say “lets spend the night”. Sunset extraordinaire.
BONNIEUX is now one of the most famous villages in Luberon. First, It has a wonderful position on top of a hill with incredible vistas across the valley, the lavender fields and the twin hill village of Lacoste.
Second, through Bonnieux passes the only road that cuts through the mountain and connects the northern slope to the southern slope of the massif to reach equally (or even more) charming village of Lourmarin. And last but not least, Bonnieux is fashionable: music festivals, art galleries, luxury accommodations and gastronomic gems – including the posh Capelongue with its Michelin starred La Bastide – are hidden in the area, taking advantage of the Cedar Forest and the shadowy slopes nearby. Plus, the drive across the mountain is a pleasure ride for vintage cars, small convertibles and Masserattis alike.
MENERBES is for me the picture-perfect hilltop village and the perfect retreat. As one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France,” Menerbes is a bit elitist, but keeps the authentic Provençal experience intact. Its elevated position creates a sense of tranquility and serenity, and the fact that is somehow away from the busier areas helps a lot. Artsy Menerbes has hosted Picasso and Dora Maar, and was home to Rene Char and Peter Mayle, the British author who wrote “A Year in Provence”. The movie “A good year” is based on this book, and was of course filmed in the region.
LOURMARIN is the Provencal postcard. Surrounded by lush vineyards and olive groves, Lourmarin exudes grace, while the Rennaissance castle is a sight to behold.
ROUSSILLON is a heaven for photographers and absolute insta-perfection. This one-of-a-kind village is famous for its Ochre Trails winding through deep orange rocks that make an enviable backdrop for your reel or your selfie, #nofilterneeded. Exploring the village you will snap a pic at every corner, because the light paints incredible colors on the pink hued houses. The golden hour has a new meaning here.
GORDES is another dramatic hilltop included in The most beautiful villages in France collection. A must on the lavender map, Gordes is the most memorable hideaway near the most memorable lavender field in Provence: the wonderful Abbaye de Senanque. The village is breathtaking, even literally; its pretty cobbled streets go up and upper towards amazing vantage points. But Gordes is not just a pretty face: the food and hospitality is amazing, while the castle, transformed into a contemporary art museum, is a valid attraction. How about a little mystery? There is also the Gordes underneath. Hidden from plain sight, an underground network of tunnels, caves, and cellars is THE mystery to unlock.
FOUR: OFF THE BEATEN PATH
These under-the-radar, secret gems are my favorites:
CUCURON
It’s date night and we are in Provence, which means driving among vineyards and lavender fields in a small convertible, dinner reservations at sunset, an old movie screened on the restaurant’s outside terrace. It is a magical spot in an old village square with lively taverns all round a beautiful pond. The air vibrates with flirtation conversations and the clinking of wine glasses,The pond is surrounded by centuries-old plane trees, whose branches extend gracefully over the water, and you suddenly feel inside an enchanting mirror, slipping through on the other side.
The village is Cucuron and the square is called Place de L’Etang, situated around the Étang de Cucuron, the beautiful pond that lies at the heart of the village. If something of the date night scene seemed familiar, remember “A Good Year”, the Ridley Scott movie with Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard? Their chemistry is palpable and she warns him: “I’m very, very suspicious; very, very irrational, and I have a very, very short temper.” Yes, it’s filmed right here.
OPPEDE
Oppède is divided into two parts – the upper village, known as “Oppède-le-Vieux” or “Old Oppède,” and the lower village, known as “Le Plan.” The upper village, with its picturesque ruins of an old château and a fortified church, is forever enveloped in an air of mystique. This atmospheric village offers more than just historical charm and the most romantic little streets; it also offers the best little hikes in the area, by theme and difficulty. Even if you are not the sports type, the walk from the village through ancient forest and spectacular ruins to the church at the top is a must, and offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. For dinner, go to the lower village at Bistro les Poulivets.
GOULT
What a gorgeous find! Tucked away from the tourist crowds, Goult offers a serene escape for intrepid travelers who are ready to go through the rabbit hole. Strolling through the picturesque streets, you’ll be kissing, holding hands and taking tens of cheesy selfies. This is a traditional provencal village at its best, where villagers stop for a chat in the main square near the post office, and the waiters at the bistro know everyone. The stone houses are adorned with blue shutters and flower-filled balconies, and many hide secret gardens. Goult’s relaxed and genuine atmosphere makes it a perfect place to unwind and soak in the Provençal ambiance. You can totally make it your base for the Luberon holiday, especially since the two – yes, only two – restaurants in the village are top notch.
