ONE: TAORMINA & CASTELMOLA Taormina is iconic for good reason and is one of those places worth braving the crowds. Down in Taormina Mare, the coastline puts Isola Bella on display as if an artist had envisioned the perfect ornament for the coast. Then ride the funicular or drive up the hill and the town itself unfolds: alleys that feel like discoveries, terraces that surprise at every turn, a piazza that is essentially a sublime balcony over the Ionian, and above all, the Greek Theatre. One of the most fabulous concert halls in the world, with its stage opening onto Etna’s smoking peak and the endless coastline, it is the…
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CHIANTI CLASSICO: LEGENDA COCOSULUI NEGRU
In vechile tinuturi ale Toscanei, intre orasele rivale Siena si Florenta, se intinde glorioasa regiune Chianti – un trofeu ravnit intr-o disputa teritoriala veche de secole. Generatie dupa generatie, dusmania dintre cele doua orase mari a mocnit sub soarele arzator al Toscanei. Un cocos alb, un cocos negru si o cursa de cai Disperati sa gaseasca o cale de a hotari, o data pentru totdeauna, cui avea sa-i revina teritoriul Chianti – ceea ce azi numim Chianti Classico -, conducatorii celor doua orase au convenit asupra unei solutii neobisnuite: o cursa de cai. Regulile erau simple, dar fara precedent – doi calareti urmau sa porneasca la drum la primul cantat…
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ACQUA ALTA IN VENETIA
Ca toate marile frumuseti, e plina de contraste: La Serenissima este incredibila, irezistibila, fragila si dramatica, toate la un loc. Destinul Venetiei de a fi un taram al minunilor vesnic in pericol are o frumusete tragica, iar nimic nu o face mai evident decat zilele de acqua alta.Pe 29 octombrie 2018, o maree exceptionala a inundat Venetia. A fost a patra cea mai mare inregistrata vreodata si cea mai dramatica din ultimul deceniu. Apoi, in 2020, a aparut sistemul de baraje MOSE, iar toata lumea a devenit mai relaxata. DESCOPERIREA: ACQUA ALTA LA VENETIA Cand apele inunda strazile si creeaza o oglinda spectaculoasa, orasul se transforma. Ceea ce pentru turisti…
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FLORENTA: ESENTIALELE
UNU: Panorama de la San Miniato al Monte Lasa-i pe toti ceilalti sa se opreasca la Piazzale Michelangelo pentru privelistea asupra orasului. Desi un loc foarte bun pentru poze, e, practic, o parcare supraaglomerata. Mergi mai sus, pe Via delle Porte Sante, pana la San Miniato al Monte. Aceasta e biserica cu cea mai frumoasa priveliste din lume. DOI Acoperisurile Florentei Florenta are un orizont magic, al carui profil iti ramane intiparit pe retina si la care visezi des. Domul miraculos al catedralei, turnul inconfundabil al Palazzo Vecchio, acoperisurile din tigla, fatadele de marmura si palatele renascentiste creeaza o senzatie imersiva care iti redefineste reperele de frumos intr-un mod socant…
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TOSCANA: ESENTIALELE
Rezerva-ti cel putin doua saptamani pentru Toscana; oricum o sa-ti doresti sa dureze o viata. In Toscana, trebuie sa iti acorzi timp, sa te lasi purtat de val si sa nu te opui tentatiei – aici inveti ce inseamna cu adevarat slow travel. Ai nevoie de timp sa o traiesti, nu doar sa o vizitezi, si odata ce o faci cum trebuie, descoperi ca nu exista niciun alt loc pe lume ca asta. INTEL UNU: FLORENTA Probabil cel mai frumos oras din lume, Florenta e un univers in sine. Aici s-a nascut Renasterea si tot aici incepe cu adevarat calatoria ta. Despre Florenta, aici. DOI: REGIUNEA CHIANTI CLASSICO Din Florenta,…
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Of Love and War: the Legend of the Black Rooster
In the ancient land of Tuscany, nestled between the rival cities of Siena and Florence, lay the fertile Chianti region – a coveted prize in a centuries-old territorial feud. For generations, the animosity between the two cities had simmered beneath the Tuscan sun. A white rooster, a black rooster and a grand horse race Desperate to resolve once and for all the question of who rightfully owned Chianti, the leaders of both cities agreed on an unusual solution: a grand horse race. The rules were simple yet unprecedented: two riders would set off at the crowing of a rooster, one from each city, and the point where they met would…
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AMALFI COAST #SINEQUANON: THE CORNERSTONES
ONE: RAVELLO This might just be a surprising number one for many. The usual day-trippers and rather ‘efficient’ travel guides tend to miss it entirely. And that’s a good thing, because the inevitable crowds already make it difficult enough to reach and truly savour its aristo beauty. Ravello, incidentally, isn’t actually on the Amalfi Coast at all, but rather perched elegantly uphill, just above Amalfi. It is spectacular, undeniably noble, and yes, rather expensive – but worth every penny. The narrow road leading up to Ravello is carved into the rocky mountain, feeling like an initiation path. It’s called, quite evocatively, the Valley of the Dragon. Ravello is also delightfully…
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Acqua Alta in Venice, a beautiful disaster
Like all great beauties, she is too much: La Serenissima is incredible, irresistible, fragile and dramatic, altogether. Venezia’s destiny as a forever-endangered realm of wonder has a tragic beauty to it, and nothing makes it more obvious than the acqua alta days. On October 29, 2018, an exceptional high tide flooded Venice. It was the fourth highest ever recorded, and the most dramatic in over a decade. Then, in 2020, the MOSE flood barrier system has happened, and everybody became more relaxed. THE FIND Acqua Alta in Venice, when the waters hold a mirror to her ancient face, revealing her resilience and dramatic vulnerability. During these times, the city transforms.…
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ROME SINEQUANON: Love Eternal For The Eternal City
Rome wasn’t built in a day and you can’t see all of it in a day. But if you have just a weekend or a few days for the Città Eterna? You’ll read hundreds of travel guides and a million tips on blogs and forums, most of them accurate in their own way. Here is the extra-intel you need to navigate Rome with your sanity intact – and actually enjoy it. INTEL ONE: THE ICONS Let’s cut to the chase. You are in the most magnificent city that has ever ruled the world and there are quite a few heavy hitters you absolutely can’t skip. Stand in the shadow of…
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VENICE #SINEQUANON: THE CORNERSTONES
ONE: VENICE, OFF-SEASON Off-season Venice: by all means, travel outside summer season or Carnival week (unless you have tickets to one of the official balls, then you simply have to throw it all in). Venice is so full of tourists that you can hardly call any time of the year “off season”, but I discovered that La Serenissima is only serene in winter, and maybe some blissful days in early spring or late autumn. Check this out for Venice in winter. The wind in the lagoon may be chilly at times, but you’ll discover a truer, more fascinating face of Venice. TWO: A ROOM WITH A VIEW A room with…
