ONE: TAORMINA & CASTELMOLA Taormina is iconic for good reason and is one of those places worth braving the crowds. Down in Taormina Mare, the coastline puts Isola Bella on display as if an artist had envisioned the perfect ornament for the coast. Then ride the funicular or drive up the hill and the town itself unfolds: alleys that feel like discoveries, terraces that surprise at every turn, a piazza that is essentially a sublime balcony over the Ionian, and above all, the Greek Theatre. One of the most fabulous concert halls in the world, with its stage opening onto Etna’s smoking peak and the endless coastline, it is the…
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Of Love and War: the Legend of the Black Rooster
In the ancient land of Tuscany, nestled between the rival cities of Siena and Florence, lay the fertile Chianti region – a coveted prize in a centuries-old territorial feud. For generations, the animosity between the two cities had simmered beneath the Tuscan sun. A white rooster, a black rooster and a grand horse race Desperate to resolve once and for all the question of who rightfully owned Chianti, the leaders of both cities agreed on an unusual solution: a grand horse race. The rules were simple yet unprecedented: two riders would set off at the crowing of a rooster, one from each city, and the point where they met would…
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SINEQUANON Sardinia: Probably The Most Beautiful Beaches in The World
ONE: South of Olbia & Tavolara It’s hard to pick a number one sight in a realm that already has the most beautiful sea ever; but if you must, there can only be one with Tavolara in it. With Tavolara guarding the surreal beauty of the shores of Costa Dorata like an immense, white-scaled fantastic creature, the views are showstopping. Sardinia’s typical beauty, the marriage between lush vegetation, sculpted rocks and epic beaches, is at its best here. From Capo Cerato to Capo Coda Cavallo, absolutely every inch of Costa Dorata is a postcard, with the fantastic creature as a backdrop. Explore the beaches and go on top of Capo…
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AMALFI COAST #SINEQUANON: THE CORNERSTONES
ONE: RAVELLO This might just be a surprising number one for many. The usual day-trippers and rather ‘efficient’ travel guides tend to miss it entirely. And that’s a good thing, because the inevitable crowds already make it difficult enough to reach and truly savour its aristo beauty. Ravello, incidentally, isn’t actually on the Amalfi Coast at all, but rather perched elegantly uphill, just above Amalfi. It is spectacular, undeniably noble, and yes, rather expensive – but worth every penny. The narrow road leading up to Ravello is carved into the rocky mountain, feeling like an initiation path. It’s called, quite evocatively, the Valley of the Dragon. Ravello is also delightfully…
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Acqua Alta in Venice, a beautiful disaster
Like all great beauties, she is too much: La Serenissima is incredible, irresistible, fragile and dramatic, altogether. Venezia’s destiny as a forever-endangered realm of wonder has a tragic beauty to it, and nothing makes it more obvious than the acqua alta days. On October 29, 2018, an exceptional high tide flooded Venice. It was the fourth highest ever recorded, and the most dramatic in over a decade. Then, in 2020, the MOSE flood barrier system has happened, and everybody became more relaxed. THE FIND Acqua Alta in Venice, when the waters hold a mirror to her ancient face, revealing her resilience and dramatic vulnerability. During these times, the city transforms.…
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ROME SINEQUANON: Love Eternal For The Eternal City
Rome wasn’t built in a day and you can’t see all of it in a day. But if you have just a weekend or a few days for the Città Eterna? You’ll read hundreds of travel guides and a million tips on blogs and forums, most of them accurate in their own way. Here is the extra-intel you need to navigate Rome with your sanity intact – and actually enjoy it. INTEL ONE: THE ICONS Let’s cut to the chase. You are in the most magnificent city that has ever ruled the world and there are quite a few heavy hitters you absolutely can’t skip. Stand in the shadow of…
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VENICE #SINEQUANON: THE CORNERSTONES
ONE: VENICE, OFF-SEASON Off-season Venice: by all means, travel outside summer season or Carnival week (unless you have tickets to one of the official balls, then you simply have to throw it all in). Venice is so full of tourists that you can hardly call any time of the year “off season”, but I discovered that La Serenissima is only serene in winter, and maybe some blissful days in early spring or late autumn. Check this out for Venice in winter. The wind in the lagoon may be chilly at times, but you’ll discover a truer, more fascinating face of Venice. TWO: A ROOM WITH A VIEW A room with…
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Tuscany wine to be: Mamma mia, Vendemmia!
September arrives, bringing with it the familiar anticipation of Vendemmia – the grape harvest in Toscana. The calendar, naturally, fills with the usual wonders: exclusive wine tastings, the joy of community harvest, explorations of the hallowed cantine, local fairs honouring Bacchus, intriguing mystery tours, and the pranzoni – those incredible, seasonal feasts. This year, however, due to particular climatic eccentricities and hot weather, vendemmia takes place sooner than usual. The forecast hints at a historically low yield, yet promises extraordinary grapes, albeit in very limited quantities. Heatwaves and extreme conditions have resulted in smaller, often atypical grapes, with significant quality variations even from one vineyard to the next. Follow the…
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VERONA #SINEQUANON: LOVE STORY, HAPPY ENDING
The city of Romeo and Juliet can become a love story, and not necessarily a tragic one. Of all the things to love here, the house of Giulietta and the famed balcony are the least lovable – in fact the tons of heart and Cupid and flashy red souvenirs are maybe the only real tragedy that happened to this place. So forget about that story, and bear in mind that Shakespeare wrote two more Verona-related plays: Two Gentlemen of Verona and the wonderful Taming of the Shrew. I very much wanted to see the house where Katherina was tamed, but no reference to that, I’m afraid. There is still the…
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Best Open air Opera for the happy few
If you’re a classical music enthusiast or an opera lover, you must have been to the Covent Garden or La Scala once or twice. But I discovered something that beats even the gilded interiors of Opera Garnier: the outdoor grandeur. Dream big: an ancient theater with view of the volcano, a huge lake stage or a musical terrace where you can see the sun rising 315 m over the sea. THE FINDS Arena di Verona Opera Festival Witnessing world-class opera performed in a nearly 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheater, with a cast of thousands and massive sets, is an absolute treat. The atmosphere is magical and the audience is electric INTEL: Teatro…
