How did we end up with a Crêperie? Our friends already know the story, which, incidentally, became quite famous in the press at the time. However, the true inception is the best part: what exactly is the connection between salted caramel, King Arthur, galettes complètes, island houses, and Celtic dances?
One word answer: a wedding. Of course, not just any wedding, but a wedding like no other, held in a water-surrounded hamlet in Brittany. Besides bringing together a wonderful bunch of people scattered all over Europe and uniting a deeply in love couple, the wedding proved the perfect opportunity to step into a story. To be honest, Carnac was already famous for its megaliths, yet it wasn’t part of my foreseeable travel plans. A beautiful coincidence led me to that wedding, and before I knew it, those three days stretched into two weeks, and it still wasn’t enough.
Morbihan
I found myself in southern Brittany, in an area known as Morbihan – a name derived from a vast gulf with indented shores and hundreds of islands, nestled on France’s southwestern coast. Statistically speaking, Brittany boasts the longest coastline in France, a fact easily explained by the intricate lacework of its shores and its sheer abundance of islands.
But who truly cares for numbers once you arrive there? You are simply mesmerized by the strange, often provocative relationship between the water and the land; a fascinating marriage whose only hope lies in the saving rhythm of the tides. Depending on the time of day, one can travel effortlessly on foot or by boat from one place to another. And, depending on the tide, a landscape might shift from spectacular to somewhat melancholic – perhaps muddy, or transformed into the calmest water mirror. Here, almost everyone owns a small boat, mostly parked safely on the ground at low tide. It’s quite a sight:
After a few days, you get used to the landscape and begin to understand how the streets and bridges are constructed. On the map, the distances seem very small, and the country appears like a fairytale, with its serene villages. However, a car or a bicycle is essential, because three kilometres between one village and another can mean a detour of about ten kilometres until you reach the first bridge to cross the water.
The ocean subtly intrudes into the shore, extending far inland, and the stretches of water reach many kilometres inland. The word “loch” is dearly loved in Brittany because it comes from the old Gallic language and refers to these small stretches of water — beautiful and mysterious, something poetic between a lake and a marsh. The advantage is that you always have a beach nearby, and you can walk on the water like Moses, quite literally, with some elegant rubber boots.
Life in these small villages is astonishing. The houses are incredibly beautiful, and the light always seems to be tamed by a delicate aquatic touch. Here, the sunset serves as a yoga session, massage, and valerian all rolled into one, as it flawlessly transports you into a vast, watercolored tranquility. And if you truly wish to disconnect from the world, you can even have your own island. Voilà:
the fun
For those not yet contemplating retirement, nor currently on their honeymoon, one might well ask: “Yes, it’s beautiful, but where’s the action?” And whilst “life” isn’t strictly found in clubs, that much is true, you can be sure you’re simply not ready for a proper Celtic party. The music is enchanting, the drinks never run dry, and the food!. You just need to know where to go and avoid being a one-track-mind tourist: befriend the locals, no matter how little French you speak. They are expressive, all utterly convinced Brittany is the most beautiful place in the world, and they rather charmingly believe in supernatural things. I, for one, simply fell in love with the way a Breton, boasting the most imposing moustache, told stories whilst pouring countless glasses from his carafe of cider.
gastronomy
When it comes to gastronomy, Brittany is an utter surprise. It’s the undisputed land of shellfish, crêpes, cider, and dozens of other age-old recipes. You’ll stumble upon charming crêperies everywhere; they’re the most common family business here, upholding a tradition held even more sacred than the family pizzeria in Italy.
Brittany’s people are less touched by tourism than those in other French regions. They live by ancient rituals that intricately weave together history, legend, and nature, making their gastronomy a truly authentic and desirable experience. The evening before the wedding, our hosts, who were born and raised in the area, gathered all the guests at a crêperie near Auray. It was an incredible meal: dozens of diners and just as many types of crêpes on the menu. A crêperie menu is beautifully simple: crêpes, galettes, and cider.
