ONE: VENICE, OFF-SEASON Off-season Venice: by all means, travel outside summer season or Carnival week (unless you have tickets to one of the official balls, then you simply have to throw it all in). Venice is so full of tourists that you can hardly call any time of the year “off season”, but I discovered that La Serenissima is only serene in winter, and maybe some blissful days in early spring or late autumn. Check this out for Venice in winter. The wind in the lagoon may be chilly at times, but you’ll discover a truer, more fascinating face of Venice. TWO: A ROOM WITH A VIEW A room with…
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Tuscany wine to be: Mamma mia, Vendemmia!
September arrives, bringing with it the familiar anticipation of Vendemmia – the grape harvest in Toscana. The calendar, naturally, fills with the usual wonders: exclusive wine tastings, the joy of community harvest, explorations of the hallowed cantine, local fairs honouring Bacchus, intriguing mystery tours, and the pranzoni – those incredible, seasonal feasts. This year, however, due to particular climatic eccentricities and hot weather, vendemmia takes place sooner than usual. The forecast hints at a historically low yield, yet promises extraordinary grapes, albeit in very limited quantities. Heatwaves and extreme conditions have resulted in smaller, often atypical grapes, with significant quality variations even from one vineyard to the next. Follow the…
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VERONA #SINEQUANON: LOVE STORY, HAPPY ENDING
The city of Romeo and Juliet can become a love story, and not necessarily a tragic one. Of all the things to love here, the house of Giulietta and the famed balcony are the least lovable – in fact the tons of heart and Cupid and flashy red souvenirs are maybe the only real tragedy that happened to this place. So forget about that story, and bear in mind that Shakespeare wrote two more Verona-related plays: Two Gentlemen of Verona and the wonderful Taming of the Shrew. I very much wanted to see the house where Katherina was tamed, but no reference to that, I’m afraid. There is still the…
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Best Open air Opera for the happy few
If you’re a classical music enthusiast or an opera lover, you must have been to the Covent Garden or La Scala once or twice. But I discovered something that beats even the gilded interiors of Opera Garnier: the outdoor grandeur. Dream big: an ancient theater with view of the volcano, a huge lake stage or a musical terrace where you can see the sun rising 315 m over the sea. THE FINDS Arena di Verona Opera Festival Witnessing world-class opera performed in a nearly 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheater, with a cast of thousands and massive sets, is an absolute treat. The atmosphere is magical and the audience is electric INTEL: Teatro…
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A story of tides: Mont Saint Michel, revealed
The mountain has always been a place of awe; beautiful and inaccessible, it caused many to perish at the mercy of tides. And as it happens with so many places of awe and beauty, it has always been a site of worship. In the early days of Christianity, monks were using Mount Tomb – that was the first name of the island – as a sanctuary. It was in 708 that Saint Michael appeared to the bishop of Avranches, commending to build an abbey on top of that mountain. The abbey was consecrated in Saint Michael’s name, and since anno domini 708, Christians continue their pilgrimage to the holy mountain,…
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Florence #SINEQUANON: How to See the Most Beautiful City
ONE: The view from San Miniato al Monte Let everybody else stop at Piazzale Michelangelo for the view over the city. While a very good spot for the pics, it is basically an over-crowded parking. Go uphill, Via delle Porte Sante, to San Miniato al Monte. This is the church with the most beautiful view in the world. TWO: THE ROOFTOPS OF FLORENCE Florence has a magical skyline to dream on to. The miraculous dome of the Duomo, the unmistakable tower of the Palazzo Vecchio, the tiled rooftops, the marbled facades and the Renaissance palazzi create an immersive feeling that becomes the city copyright. At your hotel, ask for a room…
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A ROADTRIP THROUGH CHIANTI CLASSICO
Follow La Strada del Chianti (SR222) and stop along the way to your heart’s desire. Etruscans were first here, then Romans drove their carts on these roads. A land of tremendous beauty and forever radiating serenity, the wine road witnessed the obsessive conflicts between Florence and Siena, undisturbed by battles and the march of time. Around its winding path, the timeless villages, sun-drenched vineyards, and fortified castles of Chianti Classico unfurl. Look for the Black Rooster (Gallo Nero), the historic symbol of this renowned wine, marking the territory. One way to go is from the formidable, perfectly walled Monteriggioni up through Castellina in Chianti to Panzano, where the legendary butcher…
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BUT FIRST WE FLORENCE IN STYLE
It is that time of the year. Grape harvest season means Toscana for the happy few. Two weeks of the slow, artful, almost timeless happiness in the Tuscan countryside. But first we Florence in style. When Stendhal visited Florence for the first time, he experienced a one-time feeling: a mixture of amazement, beatitude and exhilaration that proved literally overwhelming. He was dizzy and confused and sick with emotion, while physically incapable of leaving the city. I felt it too, my first time in Firenze: the allure, the wonder, the perfect beauty and the inconceivable happiness of just being there. You know that special tension you feel when you’re desperately in love,…
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Beautiful is absolute, and so is PENICHE
“One more stop” he said. We were chasing daring lighthouses, pure beaches and wild coastline, as usual. It had been a scorching hot day in August, the kind of day that hushes everything and brings out the light, white houses and white sands surrounded by a shimmering halo, people scarce and wrinkled by sun and dry winds. Coming down from Nazaré along the coast, we had taken an arduous trip inland to see Fátima (grossly overrated) and Batalha (true gem), and were heading to Óbidos for the night. Tired from the heat and the long drive, I was truly looking forward to the cool walls, green ivy, and refreshing chatter of…
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With love, from CHIANTI: 300 years of Chianti Classico
On Sept. 24, 1716, the Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III de’ Medici officially delineated the borders of the Chianti wine region. Which basically makes him a personal favorite and a hero. Him and Barone Ricasoli, of course. Cosimo had quality control teams patrolling the vineyards in the area and made sure that no other wine outside this blessed realm could be called Chianti, ever again. A predecessor to what would become the modern Denominazione d’Origine Controllata (DOC) and DOCG wine labelling system, the Grand Duke’s act was the first of its kind in Europe. Genius. 300 years later, thehappyfew couldn’t have missed the celebrations. On September 24, 2016, there…
