ONE The Western Wall, Jerusalem TWO Temple Mount, Jerusalem This is the place which holds the most religious significance in the world for Jews and Muslims altogether. The Dome of the Rock harbours the planet’s most important rock, namely the one where the Muslims believed the world was created and where Mohamed rose to the heavens, but also where the Jews believe God created Adam and the world and where Solomon built the First Temple. Judaism considers this place as the most sacred of all, where God’s presence is most felt. Temple Mount is only accessible to non-Muslims at very specific visiting times, going through one checkpoint located on the…
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AMALFI COAST #SINEQUANON: THE CORNERSTONES
ONE: RAVELLO This might just be a surprising number one for many. The usual day-trippers and rather ‘efficient’ travel guides tend to miss it entirely. And that’s a good thing, because the inevitable crowds already make it difficult enough to reach and truly savour its aristo beauty. Ravello, incidentally, isn’t actually on the Amalfi Coast at all, but rather perched elegantly uphill, just above Amalfi. It is spectacular, undeniably noble, and yes, rather expensive – but worth every penny. The narrow road leading up to Ravello is carved into the rocky mountain, feeling like an initiation path. It’s called, quite evocatively, the Valley of the Dragon. Ravello is also delightfully…
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Acqua Alta in Venice, a beautiful disaster
Like all great beauties, she is too much: La Serenissima is incredible, irresistible, fragile and dramatic, altogether. Venezia’s destiny as a forever-endangered realm of wonder has a tragic beauty to it, and nothing makes it more obvious than the acqua alta days. On October 29, 2018, an exceptional high tide flooded Venice. It was the fourth highest ever recorded, and the most dramatic in over a decade. Then, in 2020, the MOSE flood barrier system has happened, and everybody became more relaxed. THE FIND Acqua Alta in Venice, when the waters hold a mirror to her ancient face, revealing her resilience and dramatic vulnerability. During these times, the city transforms.…
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NORMANDY #SINEQUANON: FROM D-DAY TO MAGIC DAY
ONE: MONT SAINT MICHEL There is only one possible number one. Though more intimately connected to Brittany’s wild coast, Mont-Saint-Michel remains the absolute top-of-mind wonder for any escape in Western France. It is an island fortress of faith, an ethereal vision, a pilgrimage of the sea, a place where tourist guides seem inadequate and only a magnificent mystery remains. I wrote more about “the Wonder” here. TWO: THE ALABASTER COAST AND PAYS DE CAUX The Côte d’Albâtre is the French counterpart to the famous white cliffs that define the English Channel coastline. It’s a road trip of striking beauty, with quaint villages and the high falaises. Stop in Etretat, Yport,…
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ROME SINEQUANON: Love Eternal For The Eternal City
Rome wasn’t built in a day and you can’t see all of it in a day. But if you have just a weekend or a few days for the Città Eterna? You’ll read hundreds of travel guides and a million tips on blogs and forums, most of them accurate in their own way. Here is the extra-intel you need to navigate Rome with your sanity intact – and actually enjoy it. INTEL ONE: THE ICONS Let’s cut to the chase. You are in the most magnificent city that has ever ruled the world and there are quite a few heavy hitters you absolutely can’t skip. Stand in the shadow of…
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VENICE #SINEQUANON: THE CORNERSTONES
ONE: VENICE, OFF-SEASON Off-season Venice: by all means, travel outside summer season or Carnival week (unless you have tickets to one of the official balls, then you simply have to throw it all in). Venice is so full of tourists that you can hardly call any time of the year “off season”, but I discovered that La Serenissima is only serene in winter, and maybe some blissful days in early spring or late autumn. Check this out for Venice in winter. The wind in the lagoon may be chilly at times, but you’ll discover a truer, more fascinating face of Venice. TWO: A ROOM WITH A VIEW A room with…
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Tuscany wine to be: Mamma mia, Vendemmia!
September arrives, bringing with it the familiar anticipation of Vendemmia – the grape harvest in Toscana. The calendar, naturally, fills with the usual wonders: exclusive wine tastings, the joy of community harvest, explorations of the hallowed cantine, local fairs honouring Bacchus, intriguing mystery tours, and the pranzoni – those incredible, seasonal feasts. This year, however, due to particular climatic eccentricities and hot weather, vendemmia takes place sooner than usual. The forecast hints at a historically low yield, yet promises extraordinary grapes, albeit in very limited quantities. Heatwaves and extreme conditions have resulted in smaller, often atypical grapes, with significant quality variations even from one vineyard to the next. Follow the…
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VERONA #SINEQUANON: LOVE STORY, HAPPY ENDING
The city of Romeo and Juliet can become a love story, and not necessarily a tragic one. Of all the things to love here, the house of Giulietta and the famed balcony are the least lovable – in fact the tons of heart and Cupid and flashy red souvenirs are maybe the only real tragedy that happened to this place. So forget about that story, and bear in mind that Shakespeare wrote two more Verona-related plays: Two Gentlemen of Verona and the wonderful Taming of the Shrew. I very much wanted to see the house where Katherina was tamed, but no reference to that, I’m afraid. There is still the…
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Best Open air Opera for the happy few
If you’re a classical music enthusiast or an opera lover, you must have been to the Covent Garden or La Scala once or twice. But I discovered something that beats even the gilded interiors of Opera Garnier: the outdoor grandeur. Dream big: an ancient theater with view of the volcano, a huge lake stage or a musical terrace where you can see the sun rising 315 m over the sea. THE FINDS Arena di Verona Opera Festival Witnessing world-class opera performed in a nearly 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheater, with a cast of thousands and massive sets, is an absolute treat. The atmosphere is magical and the audience is electric INTEL: Teatro…
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A story of tides: Mont Saint Michel, revealed
The mountain has always been a place of awe; beautiful and inaccessible, it caused many to perish at the mercy of tides. And as it happens with so many places of awe and beauty, it has always been a site of worship. In the early days of Christianity, monks were using Mount Tomb – that was the first name of the island – as a sanctuary. It was in 708 that Saint Michael appeared to the bishop of Avranches, commending to build an abbey on top of that mountain. The abbey was consecrated in Saint Michael’s name, and since anno domini 708, Christians continue their pilgrimage to the holy mountain,…
