“One more stop” he said.
We were chasing daring lighthouses, pure beaches and wild coastline, as usual.
It had been a scorching hot day in August, the kind of day that hushes everything and brings out the light, white houses and white sands surrounded by a shimmering halo, people scarce and wrinkled by sun and dry winds. Coming down from Nazaré along the coast, we had taken an arduous trip inland to see Fátima (grossly overrated) and Batalha (true gem), and were heading to Óbidos for the night. Tired from the heat and the long drive, I was truly looking forward to the cool walls, green ivy, and refreshing chatter of the Óbidos fortress after dark. “One more stop,” he said, “we simply must be there by sunset.”
That hour before sunset is my favourite time of the day. He knew that. We drove through the Peniche peninsula, cut straight through town to the Marginal Norte, and stopped at Remédios. Even ten years on, and still this is the only cross in the world that holds such power over me, of faith and rapture. An old man fishing from atop the cliff told me he moved to Peniche thirty-five years ago, and he still came here daily. “Even if there are days with no fish, there is magic.”
Nothing prepares you for the spectacle, or for the invading wonder that instantly shifts your perspective, leaving you utterly alone, facing the whole universe from a rugged cliff. Tens of meters above the sea, the otherworldly rocks are cut in sharp slices and the roaring abyss catches your sight, dangerous and hypnotic. Walking along the coast towards the lighthouse at Cabo Carvoeiro can be a life-changing adventure. There is a Pirates Cove and lots of rocks to climb and use as a personal terrace overlooking the sea, the changing colors of sunset and the mysterious clouds over Berlenga islands. If you take your time, you can really see forever and find out the truth about yourself.
Peniche is a small town ignored by tourists and adored by surfers. Three things make it absolutely extraordinary: the waves, the sliced coastal rocks that witnessed the extinction of early Jurassic marine creatures and Cabo Carvoeiro, the second westernmost point of Europe. The supertubos here are the best in Europe, and the accommodation facilities range from surfers’ camps to great local houses and a few wonderful hotels. The food is truly great, everything from the sea comes fresh to the little port and right in the local kitchens. All taverns are good. As for a more upscale experience, you can dine hanging over the sea at Nau dos Corvos, just near Cabo Carvoeiro, with panoramic, infinite views over the Atlantic.
