September arrives, bringing with it the familiar anticipation of Vendemmia – the grape harvest in Toscana. The calendar, naturally, fills with the usual wonders: exclusive wine tastings, the joy of community harvest, explorations of the hallowed cantine, local fairs honouring Bacchus, intriguing mystery tours, and the pranzoni – those incredible, seasonal feasts.
This year, however, due to particular climatic eccentricities and hot weather, vendemmia takes place sooner than usual. The forecast hints at a historically low yield, yet promises extraordinary grapes, albeit in very limited quantities. Heatwaves and extreme conditions have resulted in smaller, often atypical grapes, with significant quality variations even from one vineyard to the next. Follow the program of cantine aperte – the cantines open for public to take part in harvest-related activities – here. Additionally, our beloved Abbadia Isola plays host to the Slow Travel Fest. Expect Via Francigena revelation walks, late-night music and drinks with locals from far and wide, and fascinating discoveries like the tunnels beneath Monteriggioni.
Vendemmia, quickly narrated
There is simply no other event that unites people, drawing out the very best in them, quite like Vendemmia. Not even a proper countryside wedding comes close. Vendemmia holds a special place in the Italian hearts, inextricably linked to one of their greatest loves: wine and wine-making. Everyone, it seems, partakes in the vineyard labours and the joyful gatherings that follow. An omnipresent respect for the grapes, and an immense sense of purpose and joy, simply oozes from the vineyards. The entire village rallies to assist the farmers with their harvest, taking turns, dedicating each day to a different vineyard. While larger producers naturally employ seasonal help, the happy few know it’s the smaller farms where the true magic lies. Expect no money, just honest, hard work, rewarded only by hearty onsite lunches – the pranzone and the promise of a sincere, shared table wine in the months to come. It is a tradition stretching back millennia.
Time of vendemmia
As a general rule, it takes place starting the latter half of September. But nature, weather and terroir invariably have their own say, meaning no one can truly predict the exact day far in advance. Larger vineyards employ scientific means to measure grape sugars and determine optimal harvest time. But the smaller ones use a simpler, more intuitive method: the savvy farmer’s daily tasting of grapes is their most trusted screening for identifying that perfect moment of maturity.
How it’s done
Grapes are meticulously hand-picked using garden shears or small, hooked knives, then carefully placed into wicker baskets before being transferred to larger containers for fermentation. The true magic, they say, lies in the tannini and dolcezza – the exacting care taken to handle the grapes so as not to break the skins prematurely and initiate an unplanned fermentation. Once gathered, the grapes are then gently crushed, often with wooden poles. Smaller farmers typically leave i raspi – the stems – intact, which contributes significantly to the wine’s tannins and, consequently, that unique, rustic flavour of their homemade vintages. The very smallest producers often employ handcrafted devices for crushing. While various local methods exist, barefoot crushing, despite pop culture legends, is rare. The must is left to ferment until the bolle (bubbling) ceases, indicating completion. The young wine is then transferred into damigiana (large glass demijohns), where it rests until a bottle is needed for the dinner table 🙂
