Like all great beauties, she is too much: La Serenissima is incredible, irresistible, fragile and dramatic, altogether. Venezia’s destiny as a forever-endangered realm of wonder has a tragic beauty to it, and nothing makes it more obvious than the acqua alta days.
On October 29, 2018, an exceptional high tide flooded Venice. It was the fourth highest ever recorded, and the most dramatic in over a decade. Then, in 2020, the MOSE flood barrier system has happened, and everybody became more relaxed.
THE FIND
Acqua Alta in Venice, when the waters hold a mirror to her ancient face, revealing her resilience and dramatic vulnerability.
During these times, the city transforms. What is often a hindrance for tourists is a subtle tragedy for citizens. The usual throngs disperse, leaving behind a quieter, more introspective Venice. You witness her age-old struggle and grace firsthand. It’s a powerful, almost spiritual connection to her enduring spirit, offering an authentic, unvarnished glimpse into her everyday drama. While the MOSE has been effectively protecting Venice from the most extreme high tides since October 2020 (successfully preventing major floods like one in November 2022 that would have historically inundated the city), lower-level acqua alta can still occur in the lowest areas, such as Piazza San Marco.
INTEL:
- Understanding the Tides: Acqua Alta means “high water.” It’s a natural phenomenon, typically occurring in autumn and winter, when high tides are amplified by weather conditions.
- Stay Informed: Check official tide forecasts daily when in Venice. Look for local signs showing expected levels (e.g., at vaporetto stops) or use apps like “hi!tide Venice” for real-time updates. One of the best resources for everything Venice is VenicExplorer
- Gear Up: Invest in a good pair of waterproof boots (Venetian style!) or buy disposable overshoes from street vendors.
- Embrace & Explore: Don’t let high water deter you. Elevated wooden walkways (passerelle) are set up in key areas. Embrace the surreal beauty: cafés with water lapping at their doors, reflections shimmering off flooded piazzas.
- Unmissable Photo Op: the iconic shot of San Marco Basilica perfectly doubled in the water’s reflection
