ONE: RAVELLO
This might just be a surprising number one for many. The usual day-trippers and rather ‘efficient’ travel guides tend to miss it entirely. And that’s a good thing, because the inevitable crowds already make it difficult enough to reach and truly savour its aristo beauty. Ravello, incidentally, isn’t actually on the Amalfi Coast at all, but rather perched elegantly uphill, just above Amalfi. It is spectacular, undeniably noble, and yes, rather expensive – but worth every penny. The narrow road leading up to Ravello is carved into the rocky mountain, feeling like an initiation path. It’s called, quite evocatively, the Valley of the Dragon.
Ravello is also delightfully small, which only adds to its feeling of exclusivity, especially off-season or in the evenings, once the last tourist bus has mercifully departed for Amalfi. The absolute musts include Villa Rufolo with its enchanting gardens and those postcard-perfect views, and the aristocratic Villa Cimbrone and its iconic Infinity Terrace. Then, a leisurely stroll on the cobbled streets followed by a truly indulgent dolce farniente in Piazza Duomo, and you’ve quite simply covered it all.
Yes, of course, you can attempt this as a day trip. When planning your Amalfi Coast itinerary, do save a day for the rather wonderful pairing of Amalfi and Ravello – but take into account that the ride from Amalfi to Ravello and back can indeed take hours if the road becomes utterly jammed with traffic, and that the last bus from Ravello does depart rather early (around 6 pm, depending on the season). Taking a taxi is an option, of course, albeit an expensive one, but in case of jams, you’ll find yourself just as stuck. The truly best scenario, however, is to spend a night or two in Ravello.
TWO: THE ROADTRIP ALONG THE COAST
You really shouldn’t be driving on the Amalfi Coast, particularly if it’s your first visit or you’re pressed for time. Though, I must admit, I understand the temptation. Absolutely nothing prepares you for that rollercoaster of plunging cliffs, those heart-stopping turns, postcard villages clinging precariously to the abyss, those wild, ridiculously relaxed Italian drivers, and views that will take your breath away. Yes, it is a must experience for passionate drivers or motorcyclists, but then, inevitably, you’re faced with the parking dilemma, which does rather dampen the mood.
I’ve actually done the drive myself a few times, specifically off-season, purely to enjoy the ride. The most beautiful thing is the coastline itself – it’s one of those road trips you truly ought to experience at least once, winding from Sorrento all the way to Salerno and back again, faithfully following the SS163. Of course, there are always other options: you could simply hire a local driver – much more relaxing – or hop on the local SITA buses. Those drivers are genuinely fearless, and the buses are surprisingly well-timed. Ideally, you’d have ample time to discover every charming village. But if you’re only dedicating a day or two to the coast, you simply must ensure you stop in Positano, Conca dei Marini, Minori, and Amalfi.
THREE: CAPRI
Now, I don’t say this very often, but I do urge you to experience Capri, even if it’s just for a fleeting few hours. You’ll know by now how I utterly detest a ‘hit-and-run’ visit, but Capri, well, Capri is worth the trip if only for that singular glimpse of the Faraglioni and a breathtaking vista over the sea.
There are, you see, two distinct Capri experiences, and they’re very different from one another: the frenetic day-tripper’s dash, and the sublime overnight stay. Such is the dazzling beauty of Capri that almost everyone misses its true serenity – there’s simply no time to breathe when you’re constantly glancing at your watch, ensuring you catch that last ride back to the mainland. It’s the after-7pm Capri that truly becomes the happy few’s favourite escape. Here, you can finally shed those rather tiresome tourist clothes, savour the exquisite sunset, perhaps even sip cocktails alongside a celebrity or two, and even dance the tarantella in a local tavern.
For the happy few who wisely choose to stay on Capri, there’s ample time to explore both the rather posh Capri town and the delightfully laid-back Anacapri; to take the exhilarating chairlift up to the highest point on Monte Solaro; to embark on a leisurely boat tour of the island; or to tackle the Pizzolungo hike. My personal favourite hike is a less-known one, La Migliera, which leads you through the charming vineyards and the authentic countryside of Anacapri, right where the locals live, grow their lemon trees, and craft their wine. The Tuono belvedere offers perhaps the finest views on the entire island.
For day-trippers: don’t run around trying to cover it all- you’ll simply miss the point. Any spot you choose to see on Capri is spectacular and will stay with you forever. You can choose to see Capri town with its famous Piazzetta, indulge in a spot of window shopping on the luxury little streets, take a walk on Via Tragara, buy an original perfume made of Capri flavours at Carthusia and revel into the splendid views of Faraglioni, Via Krupp and the rocky coastline from the Augustus Gardens. You can alternatively choose Anacapri and its bohemian feel, the unbeatable heaven at Villa San Michele, and a boat tour with visit to the Blue Grotto. Just check times and local weather before you go, take into account that transport is tricky and expensive on the island, and don’t waste time queuing here and there. One last thing. Don’t leave Capri without eating the local cake made of chocolate and almonds, and tons of citrus gelato.
FOUR: SORRENTO
Sorrento isn’t just a must-see; it’s the place to stay on the Amalfi Coast. As The Amalfi Coast is forever alluring people to its irresistible colors, beauty and drama, the first question everyone asks is: where to stay to better cover it all? Unless you are honeymooners with a one-track mind- in which case you should go for a room with a view in a luxury retreat hanging over the sea in Ravello or Positano – your answer is Sorrento.
This chic little town is ideally accessible by car, boat, or train from practically anywhere. This means you can easily reach everything in the region on a day trip: from the villages along the costiera, to Capri, Naples, Pompei, or even Ischia. Not to mention, of course, the ravishing beauty of its own views over the Bay of Sorrento and the iconic Vesuvius volcano. And for those honeymooners who prefer to be right in the thick of it, there’s a one-of-a-kind option: the mythical Hotel Bellevue Syrene.
As for the happy few wanting to escape the buzz, my tip is to stay in Sant Agnello. You can rent a whole villa with citrus grove or look for gems like Hotel Corallo or Villa Garden near the dreamy Piazza Marinella, where you have the same spectacular views over the bay, minus the crowds.
FIVE: POMPEI
A visit to Pompeii offers something utterly unique: a city truly arrested in time. It’s an extraordinary window into a moment, perfectly preserved by Vesuvius’s sudden and catastrophic eruption nearly two millennia ago.
You can actually walk the very same cobbled streets, wander through homes, and step into piazzas just as they were. The details are quite astonishing – from the vivid frescoes still adorning ancient walls to the haunting casts of children and animals, simply frozen. It’s like someone just pressed the pause button and everything stopped, and that’s the essential difference to any other archaeological sites.
