ONE The Western Wall, Jerusalem
TWO Temple Mount, Jerusalem
This is the place which holds the most religious significance in the world for Jews and Muslims altogether. The Dome of the Rock harbours the planet’s most important rock, namely the one where the Muslims believed the world was created and where Mohamed rose to the heavens, but also where the Jews believe God created Adam and the world and where Solomon built the First Temple. Judaism considers this place as the most sacred of all, where God’s presence is most felt.
Temple Mount is only accessible to non-Muslims at very specific visiting times, going through one checkpoint located on the right side of the Western Wall – the wooden bridge you see near the women’ s prayer section of the wall. Entering the Dome of the Rock is exclusively reserved to Muslims. Even so, a visit to the site is a must: Temple Mount is a large hilltop located on the other side of the Western Wall, which includes a vast, serene square, the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock.
THREE Old Jaffa, Tel Aviv
The most beautiful area in Tel Aviv, its ancient fortress with winding cobbled streets and the old harbour hold the true soul of the city.
FOUR Masada & Dead Sea, Judean Desert
Oh wow. What an otherworldly landscape, taking a roadtrip below sea-level, along the Dead Sea. Desert on one side, the still sea on the other, it feels lonely but in a good, suspenseful way. And then, dramatically rising from it all, you have Masada. This incredible fortress, perched atop a isolated rock plateau, tells an epic story of ancient defiance. It’s a must-see, whether you brave the Snake Path at dawn or opt for the cable car – the views from the top, stretching across the desert to the Dead Sea and Jordan, are a freeing experience.
FIVE Ghetsemane & Mount of Olives
The Mount itself isn’t particularly commanding, you see, and Gethsemane, with its millennia-old olive trees, truly is the most peaceful place. What really hits you, though, is the sheer awareness of it all – knowing that the Rock of the Agony in the Church of All Nations is where He questioned, and that these very olives might even have witnessed the arrest or Judas’s kiss.
SIX The Old city, Jerusalem
So, why isn’t old Jerusalem the number one of all musts, you ask? The Holy City reunites all the sacred places: the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, its ethnic quarters, Via Dolorosa, the City of David, and so much more. History has basically been written within its very walls. The feeling you get walking its streets and discovering all these for yourself is intense, even for a non-believer.
However, there’s also quite a lot of disappointment that can tone down the excitement. The Old City has become a huge bazaar; souvenir shops and open-air stands clutter the narrow streets, and everything feels crowded, messy, and rushed. Whether you’re a religious pilgrim or simply there to visit and retrace Jesus’s steps, walking the Via Dolorosa today, I’m afraid, often loses all significance. The Stations of Christ are poorly marked along the way by modest Roman numerals scribbled on the walls, while endless colourful pieces of clothing, fluffy toy animals, magnets and crosses, thousands of bottles of “sacred” oil, and countless stands of overpriced nuts, dates, and spices make it genuinely hard to navigate those narrow, steep streets.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre holds the very places of Jesus’s crucifixion, burial, and resurrection. It’s almost insanely crowded at all times, and there’s always a huge line just to enter the Tomb itself. While I certainly don’t find going inside the Tomb mandatory, visiting the church is absolutely essential. It’s fascinating to discover the site of the Golgotha, the place of the Cross, and that remarkable Unction Stone. You’ll see people from around the world kneeling here, touching the stone with their foreheads and palms, but also with their clothes, scarves, or cherished personal items, almost as if they can take a little piece of grace home with them.
SEVEN Haifa & The Bah’ai Gardens
Haifa is a good city with wonderful food, but its true star is undoubtedly the Baha’i Gardens. These cascading, meticulously manicured terraces, with their iconic golden-domed shrine, are a UNESCO World Heritage site and offer spectacular views down to the bay. It’s a place of incredible serenity and lush beauty, a rarity in Israel.
EIGHT The food
The food scene absolutely exceeds expectations. It’s common knowledge that Southern Mediterranean fare is both tasty and healthy, but Israel is truly doing the very best job of making the most of both worlds. The vibrancy here is astounding: from those traditional taverns with their paper-covered tables, to the Carmel market kiosks and to the rather chic, if sometimes overpriced, corporate-style restaurants you’ll find in Tel Aviv’s ‘European’ areas – the food, everywhere, is exceptional. They’re masters of fresh, meticulously sourced ingredients and precise preparation, resulting in dishes that are bursting with flavour and natural goodness. And here’s a tip: regardless of your religion or dietary preferences, the kosher restaurants are often my first choice. They consistently offer an incredible standard of freshness and creativity that truly wows.
NINE The Separation Wall
There is a wall delineating Israel’s borders, the kind that would make Trump very happy to have. First built in the controversial sections of the border with defensive purposes against Palestinian aggressors, the wall is now a 3-5 m tall, grey concrete entity which closes the West Bank completely. Barbed wire and cameras are mounted on the wall, while access across the border is made through armed check points. For tourists, this is an interesting experience, and crossing the border is usually smooth, especially in the tourist areas such as the exit to the Dead Sea. To go into Palestine is tougher, you have to leave your car at the border to visit Bethlehem – or better go with a local guide/ tour/ taxi.
For me, visiting Bethlehem is a must – but not for the obvious reasons. There is no point to spend almost en entire day organizing the trip just to see the Church of Nativity – especially when you’re short on time. The reason to go to Bethlehem is to see the other side of the wall, and to experience, first-hand, life in Palestine. Only by shifting perspective can you witness the reality of the everyday life of people who live inside closed walls. The graffitti on the wall in Bethlehem tell a story that the whole world should see. This is where you can find Banksy’s most famous work, but also simple drawings and messages painted by locals. Bansky’s manifest goes even further: he has a hotel in Bethlehem, suggestively called “The Walled-off Hotel“.
