The city of Romeo and Juliet can become a love story, and not necessarily a tragic one. Of all the things to love here, the house of Giulietta and the famed balcony are the least lovable – in fact the tons of heart and Cupid and flashy red souvenirs are maybe the only real tragedy that happened to this place. So forget about that story, and bear in mind that Shakespeare wrote two more Verona-related plays: Two Gentlemen of Verona and the wonderful Taming of the Shrew. I very much wanted to see the house where Katherina was tamed, but no reference to that, I’m afraid. There is still the…
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A story of tides: Mont Saint Michel, revealed
The mountain has always been a place of awe; beautiful and inaccessible, it caused many to perish at the mercy of tides. And as it happens with so many places of awe and beauty, it has always been a site of worship. In the early days of Christianity, monks were using Mount Tomb – that was the first name of the island – as a sanctuary. It was in 708 that Saint Michael appeared to the bishop of Avranches, commending to build an abbey on top of that mountain. The abbey was consecrated in Saint Michael’s name, and since anno domini 708, Christians continue their pilgrimage to the holy mountain,…
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ON RICE AND MEN (and possibly giraffes): VALENCIA
Delicate rice fields rolling under the sun, equally delicate elephants roaming freely, immense beaches stretching to the horizon, and the true, original paella – these are but a few of the rather extraordinary findings in one singular city, Valencia. A citybreak wonderland escape indeed, it’s the place where even a river lives a heroic second life, perfectly reincarnated into verdant gardens. I had underestimated Valencia for years; between the fascination of Andalucia, the pull of the islands and the overwhelming buzz of Barcelona and Madrid, Valencia never made the Spanish top list. I am happy to admit I was in the wrong. Surprises of such magnitude are priceless for the happy few, so…
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VALENCIA #SINEQUANON: THE CITY OF ORANGES AND LAUGHTER AND LIGHT
ONE: BIOPARC You can call it a zoo, but that would be a gross understatement. This is true bio-immersion: you walk and picnic into the animals’ world. In downtown Valencia, Africa comes alive: savannas, baobabs, and roaming wildlife, poof! the city has vanished. TWO: Turia – the riverbed transformed into park Turia is the ultimate urban playground. The river that once flooded the city was redirected and its dry bed transformed into nine kilometers of pure delight: orange trees and fountains, playgrounds and bike paths, bridges that tell the story of centuries, and futuristic wonders like the City of Arts and Sciences rising at the far end. It’s Valencia’s living…
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Istanbul survival guide: some snobbish advice
Istanbul: one word for it? Spectacular. Another two words? Grand Bazaar – that’s a brilliant synonym, really. Istanbul is very much a “love it or… well, love it anyway” kind of story, and a must-see, regardless. You can never truly hate it, no matter how utterly chaotic it may seem at times. But you’ll find there’s a very thin line between absolutely adoring it and simply ticking it off your list. While most people are thoroughly addicted to Istanbul, I suspect the happy few will need this rather snobbish advice to truly feel the poetry. Some quick survival pointers: the good, the bad and the warnings The Best Bits The…
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ISTANBUL #SINEQUANON: THE CORNERSTONES
ONE Hagia Sophia TWO Topkapi Palace and the Harem Plan a whole afternoon for it, it may very well be the most wonderful spot in Istanbul. Beautiful park, unbeatable views of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn from the terraces. Take your time, see it all, discover Moses’s walking stick and a fragment from the Mecca stone and the Otoman jewelries, have a coffee or lunch at the restaurant hanging over the sea. THREE Galata Tower and Pera district Craving that classic European romance feel after a hectic day in Istanbul? The Pera district is widely considered Istanbul’s answer to Montmartre. Here, quaint, steep, cobblestone streets wind their way up,…
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TUSCANY #SINEQUANON: SEE? PERFECTION EXISTS
Plan on a minimum of two weeks here; this is not a place to fast-forward through. In Tuscany, you take your time, give in, and never resist temptation – this is where you learn the true meaning of slow travel. You really need the time to live it, not just visit it, and once you do it properly, you’ll find there’s no place quite like it. Intel Best time to visit: September. Transport: fly into Pisa or Florence and then rent a car – this is non-negotiable. Tuscany has the most beautiful medieval castles and villages, plus the most wonderful country roads. If you can’t freely move between those vineyards…
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wisdom comes in improbable places
You think the Brits don’t have it in their blood, le cool, l’extraordinaire? Think again, you lovers of the avant-garde. Here is some London intelligence that I brought with me from my last outing If the planet was to choose one capital, it should be London I love it every time, each time for the old reasons and for some new reasons. You can never be bored, you can never be wrong in London. It is always worth it, even for a two night stay, a walk and an evening show. Resist and you’ll regret In London wisdom came to me in the most improbable of places. Like this wonderful…
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Despre Bretagne, inceputurile
Cum de am ajuns noi sa avem o Creperie? Prietenii stiu déjà, iar povestea, asa pe scurt, a ajuns destul de celebra in presa. Insa rasfoind din cand in cand pe aici veti afla care este legatura intre caramelul sarat, regele Arthur, les galettes completes, casele-insula si dansurile celte. Intr-un cuvant, o nunta. Desigur ca nu orice fel de nunta, ci o nunta cu mare talc si unica pe lume, care a avut loc intr-un catun inconjurat de ape in Bretagne. Pe langa ca nunta asta a adus impreuna o gramada de oameni minunati raspanditi prin toata Europa si a unit o pereche de ti-e mai mare dragul, a fost…
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Vacanta in Portugalia sau Mai e timp pentru revelatii
Soare. Vant. Plaje salbatice, nesfarsite. Oceanul cel mai albastru, rocile nepamantene, hipnotice. Un inegalabil sentiment al libertatii. O revelatie categorica si iremediabila a lucrurilor esentiale. Portugalia devine repede o istorie personala. Nu va fi un concediu, va fi o vacanta. Nu va fi all inclusive cu trei mese, pat si plaja cu sezlong, ci va include tot ce nici macar nu iti dadeai seama ca iti lipseste. Nu va fi doar o calatorie intr-un loc frumos, ci un voiaj uluitor de firesc inspre tine insuti. Si nu va fi descifrabil pentru amatorii de cinci stele la resort, pentru ca aici oceanul, soarele, stancile si vantul au darul sa te dezbrace…
