ONE: TAORMINA & CASTELMOLA Taormina is iconic for good reason and is one of those places worth braving the crowds. Down in Taormina Mare, the coastline puts Isola Bella on display as if an artist had envisioned the perfect ornament for the coast. Then ride the funicular or drive up the hill and the town itself unfolds: alleys that feel like discoveries, terraces that surprise at every turn, a piazza that is essentially a sublime balcony over the Ionian, and above all, the Greek Theatre. One of the most fabulous concert halls in the world, with its stage opening onto Etna’s smoking peak and the endless coastline, it is the…
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You like happiness? Go to Portugal. Now
Sun. Wind. Wild, endless shores. The deepest azure ocean, and rocks so unearthly, they are hypnotic. An unparalleled sense of untamed freedom. A stark, undeniable revelation of the essential. Portugal quickly transforms into a deeply personal history. This is not your typical holiday; this is a reset vacation. No all-inclusive resorts or rigid schedules; instead, it offers everything you never knew you were missing. during This journey through shockingly beautiful places you will find your way back to your true self. thankfully, most of Portugal will remain indecipherable to five-star resort aficionados. because here, the ocean, sun, cliffs, and wind possess the rare gift of stripping away all clichés, revealing…
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Mont Saint-Michel for the happy few
Everyone dreams of Mont Saint-Michel, the iconic abbey rising majestically from the sea. But most visitors will be swept up in the midday tides of tourism. The real treasure lies in mastering its rhythms. THE FIND The true magic of Mont Saint-Michel is revealed by visiting during specific tidal cycles and times of day. It’s about seeing the island fully surrounded by water, or conversely, walking across the vast sands at low tide, and experiencing it without the overwhelming crowds. This wisely informed decision transforms the tourist trap into a next-level, personal experience. You get to witness the dramatic power of the tides that shape its legend and enjoy the…
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Bretagne: a Celtic love story
How did we end up with a Crêperie? Our friends already know the story, which, incidentally, became quite famous in the press at the time. However, the true inception is the best part: what exactly is the connection between salted caramel, King Arthur, galettes complètes, island houses, and Celtic dances? One word answer: a wedding. Of course, not just any wedding, but a wedding like no other, held in a water-surrounded hamlet in Brittany. Besides bringing together a wonderful bunch of people scattered all over Europe and uniting a deeply in love couple, the wedding proved the perfect opportunity to step into a story. To be honest, Carnac was already…
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Acqua Alta in Venice, a beautiful disaster
Like all great beauties, she is too much: La Serenissima is incredible, irresistible, fragile and dramatic, altogether. Venezia’s destiny as a forever-endangered realm of wonder has a tragic beauty to it, and nothing makes it more obvious than the acqua alta days. On October 29, 2018, an exceptional high tide flooded Venice. It was the fourth highest ever recorded, and the most dramatic in over a decade. Then, in 2020, the MOSE flood barrier system has happened, and everybody became more relaxed. THE FIND Acqua Alta in Venice, when the waters hold a mirror to her ancient face, revealing her resilience and dramatic vulnerability. During these times, the city transforms.…
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NORMANDY #SINEQUANON: FROM D-DAY TO MAGIC DAY
ONE: MONT SAINT MICHEL There is only one possible number one. Though more intimately connected to Brittany’s wild coast, Mont-Saint-Michel remains the absolute top-of-mind wonder for any escape in Western France. It is an island fortress of faith, an ethereal vision, a pilgrimage of the sea, a place where tourist guides seem inadequate and only a magnificent mystery remains. I wrote more about “the Wonder” here. TWO: THE ALABASTER COAST AND PAYS DE CAUX The Côte d’Albâtre is the French counterpart to the famous white cliffs that define the English Channel coastline. It’s a road trip of striking beauty, with quaint villages and the high falaises. Stop in Etretat, Yport,…
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A story of tides: Mont Saint Michel, revealed
The mountain has always been a place of awe; beautiful and inaccessible, it caused many to perish at the mercy of tides. And as it happens with so many places of awe and beauty, it has always been a site of worship. In the early days of Christianity, monks were using Mount Tomb – that was the first name of the island – as a sanctuary. It was in 708 that Saint Michael appeared to the bishop of Avranches, commending to build an abbey on top of that mountain. The abbey was consecrated in Saint Michael’s name, and since anno domini 708, Christians continue their pilgrimage to the holy mountain,…
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Istanbul survival guide: some snobbish advice
Istanbul: one word for it? Spectacular. Another two words? Grand Bazaar – that’s a brilliant synonym, really. Istanbul is very much a “love it or… well, love it anyway” kind of story, and a must-see, regardless. You can never truly hate it, no matter how utterly chaotic it may seem at times. But you’ll find there’s a very thin line between absolutely adoring it and simply ticking it off your list. While most people are thoroughly addicted to Istanbul, I suspect the happy few will need this rather snobbish advice to truly feel the poetry. Some quick survival pointers: the good, the bad and the warnings The Best Bits The…
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The Beauty And The Beast: NAZARE
Far enough up the coast from Lisbon, Nazaré is only transited by tourist packs during the day. If you avoid the classical summer rage, you find a blue and white village that has not sold its soul to the devil of leisure just yet. The legend It is an old fishing village, truly ancient. Around the year 700, its inhabitants fought pirates when a legendary duo entered the scene: a monk and a king. The king wielded a sword of bravery, and the monk bore a statue of redemption. Roderic, the last Visigoth king, settled here with his monk and a statue of the Virgin Mary, borne from distant Nazareth.…
