ONE: MONT SAINT MICHEL
There is only one possible number one. Though more intimately connected to Brittany’s wild coast, Mont-Saint-Michel remains the absolute top-of-mind wonder for any escape in Western France. It is an island fortress of faith, an ethereal vision, a pilgrimage of the sea, a place where tourist guides seem inadequate and only a magnificent mystery remains. I wrote more about “the Wonder” here.
TWO: THE ALABASTER COAST AND PAYS DE CAUX
The Côte d’Albâtre is the French counterpart to the famous white cliffs that define the English Channel coastline. It’s a road trip of striking beauty, with quaint villages and the high falaises. Stop in Etretat, Yport, Fecamp, Veules-les-Roses, Dieppe. Etretat has the famous Arc cliff, the promenade along the cliffs is a must-do. The GR®21 long-distance hiking trail runs directly along the coast, and you can access it from the town. Hiking up to the top of the famous cliffs, like the Falaise d’Aval and Falaise d’Amont, offers a dramatic and immersive experience. The views from the top, where the English Channel crashes against the chalk formations, are unforgettable.
Fecamp is a jewel of a town where you cannot miss the harbor area and the Benedictine Palace. You cannot miss the titillating warmth of the Benedictine liqueur, either. Which brings up the treats: Normandy is a treasure map for foodies.
THREE: THE FOOD
Normandy is foodie heaven, especially for meat lovers. It is famous for its cheeses (Camembert, Neufchatel, Pont Eveque) and they boast the best cream and butter in France, but the most glorious thing I experienced there was the way they prepared meat in Calvados marinade or slowly cooked in cream. The duck, veal or Bayeux pork charcuterie was to die for. Bayeux as a city is very nice, too 😛
Calvados is the culinary cornerstone of the region. It adds a powerful, unique punch to many dishes. Drink it: Trou Normand, the palate-cleansing shot of Calvados served between courses. Cook it: flambé everything from chicken to pork, add a fiery finish to rich dishes and use it in cream sauces. Perhaps its most classic role is in dessert, as the secret ingredient in a traditional Tarte Normande, where it takes the apples’ flavor to a higher level.
FOUR: ROUEN
So many stories in old Rouen :> The absolutely gorgeous Cathedral with its Tour du Beurre is a scrumptious sight but the story behind is the butter in the biscuit, so to speak: The Butter Tower was financed by the sale of indulcences on butter consumption during lent 🙂 Wanna have a treat during lent and still go to heaven? pay for it and enjoy! Then there’s the tragic story: Place du Vieux Marché is the site where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. In that same square, you’ll find La Couronne, the oldest inn in France.
The old city is wonderful to explore: the cobbled streets, the patisseries, the Hotel de Ville and its park, the splendid Abbatiale Saint-Ouen. The Gros-Horloge on Horloge Street is something to look up to; it may be the most beautiful astronomic clock you’ve seen.
FIVE: HONFLEUR
Forget Deauville, Honfleur is the chic place to be. Nothing more to add here: gorgeous restaurants, lots of romance, you simply cannot go wrong.
SIX: THE LANDING BEACHES
If it’s Normandy, it’s a D-Day roadtrip to visit the five landing beaches: Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword. If you’re not into history or don’t have the time to visit all of them, drive to Arromanches-les-Bains—where the Musée du Débarquement is and where you can see the port built by the Allies to secure the coastline—and to the nearby Gold Beach (Ver-sur-Mer).
SEVEN: PAYS D’ AUGE
Normandy, like all character escapes to the countryside, is a road trip. Renting a car is mandatory, and the best way to stay true to the local spirit is to be lodged in a traditional house. When in the French countryside, I recommend choosing your rental from Gites de France. The region in Calvados known as Pays d’Auge is at the core of all Norman values: apple orchards, iconic houses and horse farms. The half-wooden, thatched roof Norman homes here are called chaumieres and have a fairytale, timeless appeal and all the modern comfort.
