Toata lumea viseaza la Mont Saint-Michel, la silueta iconica a abatiei ce se ridica aproape fantasmagoric din mare. Insa majoritatea vizitatorilor sunt prinsi in valul turistic, ca sa zic asa – daca tot vorbim de maree. Adevarata gaselnita e sa prinzi ritmul mareelor. DESCOPERIREA Adevarata magie a Mont Saint-Michel ti se dezvaluie cand iti planifici vizita in functie de maree. Trebuie sa prinzi fie momentul cand insula e complet inconjurata de apa, fie, dimpotriva, sa te plimbi pe intinderile de nisip la reflux, bucurandu-te de totul fara multimea coplesitoare. Informatia asta va face diferenta intre o capcana pentru turisti si o experienta de-a dreptul unica si extrem de personala: ai ocazia…
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NORMANDIA: ESENTIALELE
UNU: MONT SAINT MICHEL Aici exista un singur candidat posibil pentru locul unu. Desi mai intim legat de coasta salbatica a Bretaniei, Mont Saint-Michel este primul lucru la care te gandesti cand zici vestul Frantei. Este o fortareata-insula, o viziune eterica, un pelerinaj al marii, un loc unde ghidurile turistice nu prea ajuta si care mereu ramane doar un mister magnific. Am scris mai multe despre Mont aici. DOI: COASTA DE ALABASTRU SI PAYS DE CAUX Cote d’Albatre este omologul francez al faimoaselor stanci albe care definesc coasta Canalului Manecii. Este un roadtrip de o frumusete izbitoare, cu sate pitoresti si cu albul socant al falezelor inalte. Opreste-te in Etretat,…
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My Breton Feast: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Taste Elevation
We are all foodies, but appetites come in many forms: ravenous, impulsive, artistic, disciplined, cultivated, refined, or simply passionate. And just as I have no doubt that everyone will discover at least one galette that makes them hum with delight, I also know that, after truly experiencing Brittany, three things will change forever: your relationship to crepes, your expectations of oysters and mussels, and your understanding of the miraculous role of salt in dishes. Oysters Is it the almost otherworldly shell, the promise of aphrodisiac powers, or simply a fashionable reputation? What’s certain is that oysters create fascination, if not addiction for some. I’ve never been a huge fan myself,…
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Mont Saint-Michel for the happy few
Everyone dreams of Mont Saint-Michel, the iconic abbey rising majestically from the sea. But most visitors will be swept up in the midday tides of tourism. The real treasure lies in mastering its rhythms. THE FIND The true magic of Mont Saint-Michel is revealed by visiting during specific tidal cycles and times of day. It’s about seeing the island fully surrounded by water, or conversely, walking across the vast sands at low tide, and experiencing it without the overwhelming crowds. This wisely informed decision transforms the tourist trap into a next-level, personal experience. You get to witness the dramatic power of the tides that shape its legend and enjoy the…
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NORMANDY #SINEQUANON: FROM D-DAY TO MAGIC DAY
ONE: MONT SAINT MICHEL There is only one possible number one. Though more intimately connected to Brittany’s wild coast, Mont-Saint-Michel remains the absolute top-of-mind wonder for any escape in Western France. It is an island fortress of faith, an ethereal vision, a pilgrimage of the sea, a place where tourist guides seem inadequate and only a magnificent mystery remains. I wrote more about “the Wonder” here. TWO: THE ALABASTER COAST AND PAYS DE CAUX The Côte d’Albâtre is the French counterpart to the famous white cliffs that define the English Channel coastline. It’s a road trip of striking beauty, with quaint villages and the high falaises. Stop in Etretat, Yport,…
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A story of tides: Mont Saint Michel, revealed
The mountain has always been a place of awe; beautiful and inaccessible, it caused many to perish at the mercy of tides. And as it happens with so many places of awe and beauty, it has always been a site of worship. In the early days of Christianity, monks were using Mount Tomb – that was the first name of the island – as a sanctuary. It was in 708 that Saint Michael appeared to the bishop of Avranches, commending to build an abbey on top of that mountain. The abbey was consecrated in Saint Michael’s name, and since anno domini 708, Christians continue their pilgrimage to the holy mountain,…
